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Michelle’s “Lonely Planet” Guide to Puno, Peru

I’ve been using my Lonely Planet guidebook to navigate Puno, but after living here for over a month for our cookstove research project, I feel I’ve gotten to know the place pretty well. The Internet doesn’t have that much info on Puno either so in the end, I decided to just make my own guide to Puno.

I haven’t included anything about accommodation because I live in the same building we work in for our research so unfortunately, I don’t know much about the hotels and hostels around here. Also, the Internet does actually have accommodation recommendations for Puno so you should be able to Google search your way around that. Without further ado…

Basics and what to pack
Activities
Nightlife
Shopping
What to eat
Other

Puno basics and what to pack

Puno has two seasons: dry (North American summer) and wet (North American winter). Most people choose to travel to Peru in the dry season – June, July, August – and will need to be prepared for extremely sunny and intense days and cold nights up at altitude.

Sunscreen is a must during the daytime. I brought BB cream which is all the rage in the States at the moment; it’s combination tinted moisturizer and sunblock that you can get at Walmart or any drugstore. Your face, neck, and hands will be the things most exposed to the sun so think about protecting them. Bring sunglasses with UV protection. You can also buy a *really cool* hat once you get to Peru:

Essential items: sunglasses and *really cool* sun hat

For the cold, most travelers choose layers. I see a lot of people with sporty ultralight down/synthetic jackets or jackets with a waterproof/wind-breaking capacity. During the day, one or two layers on top will be just fine but at night you will need more like 2-3 layers on top and perhaps 2 layers on bottom, including nice thick, warm socks. Most accommodations will NOT HAVE HEATING (although some will offer a heater for an extra cost), but thankfully they know how to dress a bed with thick blankets around here. (Mine currently has a regular soft blanket, a down comforter, and two thick alpaca wool blankets. And I sleep with a hot water bottle.)

Speaking of Lonely Planet guides, I do recommend bringing along a Lonely Planet guidebook if you’ll be traveling the country extensively.

I brought along my Patagonia Nano Puff ultra-lightweight synthetic jacket (XS in black) and it was absolutely perfect for Peru’s climate. My boyfriend got it for me for my birthday shortly before departing for Peru and I was slightly disappointed the fit wasn’t ‘sexier’ but performance-wise the jacket was very impressive. And no, I’m not being paid to say any of this – it’s all my honest opinion.

Wearing my nanopuff on a hike to the statue overlooking Puno and Lake Titicaca
Wearing my nanopuff on a hike to the statue overlooking Puno and Lake Titicaca

It’s great for high 40’s-60’s degrees F, breathes really well for when you sweat during outdoor activities (like hiking), and keeps you warm even when wet because it’s synthetic instead of down. Plus it rolls up into the tiniest, lightweight little ball which is perfect for backpacking or just packing light in general. The only downside I experienced is that some of the stitching in the seams came out during a machine wash (but this turned out to be purely aesthetic and hasn’t affected the performance of the jacket). Luckily you can take in your jacket to Patagonia be repaired or replaced. And otherwise I recommend washing on gentle or hand-washing it.

Wearing my Nano Puff while hiking in the cloud forest during the Salkantay Trek in Peru
Wearing my Nano Puff while hiking in the cloud forest during the Salkantay Trek in Peru

I’ve really seen the value you get from the Patagonia Nano Puff – I continue to wear it here in Balitmore during the spring. I layer it with a fleece for temperatures around the high 40’s/low 50’s and it’s comfortable and easy.

Cost: $200 at REI. Shop the Nano Puff.

If you are moving to Puno for an extended period of time, I recommend bringing a hot water bottle and investing in a hot water boiler here (you can get one for about ~40-50 soles at Plaza Vea or an electronics shop, or if you get lucky at an outdoor market). These items plus the semi-functional heater in my room have literally saved me from the misery of the cold.

You can easily pick up wooly hats, socks, gloves, and scarves here in Puno. They also sell a lot of thick, fleece-lined (although probably really cheaply made) decorative leggings both in the tourist shops and at the local market. My fleece leggings are perfect for the weather here I find. *Less easy thing to find? Any books in English. Bring those.

Whether living here or passing through, hiking boots are great to have. They sell a lot of hiking boots here but it’s hard to know which ones are quality. I’m glad I brought mine from home. A lot of people – locals and travelers alike – wear hiking boots all the time, even when not hiking. It’s very normal in Puno. I wear either those or my knee-high slip-on black boots every day. Even though I brought running shoes, I’ve never found a need for them. If you want proper hiking gear things (packs, sleeping bag, poles, adventure pants, etc.) don’t expect to get them in Puno. You can get them in Cuzco instead, or bring them from home.

I got my hiking boots from REI before heading to Peru. I recommend going in there and trying on a bunch of different styles and sizes – and letting the store clerk help you. Generally, you will want a pair a 1/2 size bigger than your normal shoe size to account for thick hiking socks. I recommend testing out your shoes on a slanted surface (they should have this inside the REI store for exactly this purpose) and making sure your toes don’t get bunched when going DOWNHILL. You don’t realize if you’ve never had hiking boots before, but downhill is way more important for boot comfort than uphill.

My Merrell Moab Mid Hiking Boots
My Merrell hiking boots while relaxing during the Salkantay trek

I picked a waterproof, mid-rise pair for the extra warmth and they worked out perfectly. I ended up with Merrell Moab Mid Hiking Boots and they were perfect. This particular boot has a lot of cushioning so I never even needed to break them in. I wore them all around Puno and during my 5-day Salkantay Trek. Love them.

Making friends at Machu Picchu in my Merrell hiking boots
Making friends at Machu Picchu while sporting my hiking boots

Cost: $130 at REI. Shop the Merrells.

Another thing to take into consideration is the altitude. I highly recommend getting a prescription filled for Diamox before you come over. You are supposed to start taking it before you get up to altitude and boy oh boy does it work wonders. It will make you have to pee a million times and you need to be sure to keep hydrated, but it will help relieve the initial symptoms of altitude sickness. I know you can get a Peruvian drug called Soroche here in Puno if you don’t go for the Diamox. I have never used it so I don’t know how well it works but it’s a thought! I found that coca tea, which is readily available here, is a nice supplement and helps relieve symptoms short-term.

When I first got here, I noticed I would be out of breath really easily and wasn’t hungry at all, but all of the most obvious altitude symptoms will fade within the first week. Oh, except increased flatulence. I’ll let you Google and discover that one for yourself.

Guide to Puno

If you are planning on traveling to the Amazon region in Peru while here, you should grab a prescription for malaria prophylaxis (check which prophylaxis is recommended on the CDC website). You will also need a Yellow Fever vaccination (which is expensive in the States but it does last you 10 years of travel!) – you can get it in Peru for between 5 soles and 180 soles depending on if you go to a public hospital for it or private clinic.

Other things that are not so easy to find here: hair elastics. Contact lens solution. Chapstick. Any Apple products or accessories.

If you are a student GET AN ISIC CARD before you come here. It will save you money on certain things like tours and tickets to see Machu Picchu. #worthit

Activities

Day trips – Uros islands, Taquile, Amantani, Sillustani – I’m guessing that if you’re passing through, you came to Puno to see Lake Titicaca. No guide to Puno would be complete without mention of the floating Uros islands. I’m not sure what the deal is with the other islands (I was told they aren’t worth it), but you should probably check out the Uros islands. They are made entirely of a floating mudbed topped with floating reeds.

You can walk down to the water to the end of the pier where the souvenir market is and buy a return boat ticket (12 soles) and entry to the islands ticket (5 soles) and go. I think something was 2 soles too but I can’t remember what it was. You don’t need to be on any sort of official tour ticket, but do ask questions to the people selling you the tickets.

For example, check if the tour is in English at all, check when the boat will return you to Puno, ask if there will be any required fees once you’re there (I had to pay to go on one of the traditional reed boats, pictured below, once I got to the island and I had no way out of it. It wasn’t that expensive but it was annoying).

If the Uros people offer to cook you food, find out how much it is and say yes if you’re hungry. they will literally grab the fish from the lake and cook them right then and there for you and from what I could tell the prices were the same as at a tourist restaurant (17 soles).

A reed boat made of the same material as the Uros Islands in Puno

Pedestrian street: Calle Lima – If you for some reason end up staying in another part of the city, you should definitely check out Calle Lima. It’s not that impressive as far as tourist resources go (definitely no Khao San Road), but has things tourists need/like like English menus, souvenirs, tour tickets, banks, and cafes.

Parque Pino – Puno’s closest thing to an actual park, it’s really just a city square with a fountain in the middle and benches. A great place to grab an ice cream and sit in the sun.

Having ice cream in Parque Pino, Puno

Yavari ship I’m not really clear what this is or why it’s here…Apparently it’s an important ship and you can visit it from Puno.

Kuntur Wasi viewpoint (the condor) – If you look up into the mountains, you will see the condor flying high above Puno. You can hike up to the condor and beyond from the Plaza de Armas. Just follow signs for Kuntur Wasi to the left of the cathedral. Warning: If you aren’t acclimatized (and even if you are!) this is an extremely strenuous uphill hike that will leave you sucking for air and taking lots of breaks. But the view from the top is wonderful.

Kuntur Wasi condor viewpoint Puno, Peru

Plaza de Armas and the Cathedral – Worth it to check out, take some photos outside. The inside is, well, it’s a cathedral.

The daily parade – Whether you are here for a few days or a long time, you will surely witness one of Puno’s many decadent parades. The people in the parades, who are often children it seems, get dressed up in costumes or traditional clothing and dance while marching bands play music LOUDLY and at varying quality. The people in Puno seemingly need no justification to parade – it literally happens every single day, so the specialness erodes quite quickly unfortunately. Another celebratory thing: firecrackers. Any day, any time.

Parades in the streets in Puno

Cerrito de Huajsapata (the man on the hill) – This is another viewpoint you can climb to. If you are facing the mountains, you’ll see the statue of the man lower and to the right of the condor. Follow signs for it from the right of the cathedral in Plaza de Armas. This little climb is way less strenuous than the condor.

Lake Titicaca walk – There is a pathway you can walk along the water – you make a sort of loop, even going through the souvenir market. Start by walking left along the water and follow the pathway in a loop back over the water and through the market stalls.

Nightlife

Puno is definitely not known for its nightlife. There are a few bars and clubs here and there but my impression is that most travelers passing through have early nights and early mornings and aren’t looking for a party.

Positive Reggae Cafe/Bar This place is right on the pedestrian street. It has lots of funky wall coverings including flags on the ceiling and blacklights in the back. The food is not so great but I haven’t had any drinks there yet so can’t speak to that.

The Megadisco (Domino) on Jr. Libertad – I live across the street from this place (yaaaay). I think it’s mostly locals and loud Spanish music but I’ve never been inside.

Karaoke – I see signs for it everywhere but have never been (oddly).

Pacha Mixology – This place specializes in nitrogen-frozen drinks. You can get pisco drinks with a twist: with some sort of juice balls in the drink, or frozen and “smoking” with liquid nitrogen. It’s a fun little novelty place.

Pisco frozen drink in Puno

Shopping

Mercado Central – This is the local market. It has two stories – you can find raw food items like fruit and veg and meats on the bottom floor. The top has some places selling prepared foods and juices, as well as some clothing stalls and electronics stalls (you can get your electronics fixed cheaply here). Located at Jirón Arbulú and Jirón Tacna.

Plaza Vea – Puno’s less impressive Walmart. Good place to go for pantry items, electronics (like a hot water boiler), water bottles, some prepared foods, fruit and veg, clothing, etc. They don’t have the biggest variety and probably will be more expensive for fruit and veg than the mercado, but they are consistent and you don’t feel like you’re gonna get sick from eating the food. On Los Incas street, 3 blocks from Parque Pino.

Saturday outdoor market (Feria) – This is the local market, selling mostly things like boots, hats, leggings, and skirts. You can also get keys made here. There are some fruit stands as well. If you walk back into the permanent shops, you can find electronics stores that sell cameras, binoculars, and flashlights. I don’t know how to describe where the market takes place – it’s east from Calle Lima towards the water and is on a few streets running parallel to the water. You can’t miss it.

Feria Saturday market in Puno, Peru

The souvenir/artisan shops by the lake – You will see these if you walk down to the pier to go to the Uros Islands. It’s just stall after stall of souvenirs – hats, gloves, bags, socks, colorful alpaca wool items. I haggle for things when I’m there and start to walk away if they won’t drop the price. It’s fun and effective.

The shops on Calle Lima – There are a few pseudo-convenience stores around here which is nice if you just want a candy bar or bottle of water. A lot of these shops will take/develop photos for you too. They have postcards as well and of course all of the souvenir items you could ask for.

What to Eat

Ají – This is a personal staple for me. This condiment is seemingly the only way to make your food spicy around here. It’s green or red sauce and you can ask for it at any restaurant. It’s pronounced ah-HEE but you can also ask for picante or rocoto picante and you’ll get the same thing.

Menú – A menú is not the same as a menu (la carta); it is a fixed priced, multi-course meal offered by most restaurants. You usually get a soup, a main dish, a dessert, and a drink for a set price. It can be fun to order the menú because you get to try a few things and it is usually cheaper than ordering a la carte.

Trout and kingfish – Lake Titicaca specialties! You can get fish any way you want it, but their favorite is fried. I have had really yummy trucha frita at one of the outdoor places just outside the artisan market by the lake. I have also had salty but delicious trucha in a tomato and onion sauce (I don’t know what the dish was called) at one of the restaurants on the pedestrian street.

Fried trout in Puno
It’s tough to get a good fish photo. This was a menú with fried trout, maize, a small salad, and two types of potatoes. You can see the requisite ají off to the side (I don’t eat anything without it!)

Cafe BuhoThis is our favorite cafe. They have really yummy breakfast options for great prices. We always get the “American breakfast” which comes with tea, fresh juice, bread, eggs, marmalades and honey, and a plate of fruit (12 soles). You can also get German waffles with delicious raw honey or even crepes here. The place is run by a European (German?) man and his Peruvian wife, and we find that not only is the inside more Westernized than other cafes but the food is as well. They don’t have an extensive menu, but they have the basics. The address is 142 Jr. Lambayeque.

Mojsa – Known as the “best restaurant in Puno” and in a prime location too – just in front of the Cathedral. Prices are around the 30 soles mark so it’s actually not that bad and the food is tasty. It’s nothing crazy special but the quality is definitely a tier better than other restaurants and the view over Plaza de Armas is great.

Queso helado and mora flavored ice cream – Queso helado is a bit of a misnomer. It has nothing to do with cheese but is just a certain type of ice cream popular in Arequipa. There is a woman who sells it on the street (around Parque Pino) in the afternoons sometimes. It kinda tastes like Christmas. You can find mora flavored ice cream in the ice cream shops. It means “berry” flavor but I couldn’t really describe the taste.

Mates – I recommend trying mate de coca (coca tea) if you are in Peru. You might not like it – it has a very earthy taste – but it’s worth a go. They also have other yummy tea flavors: muña (a minty herb), canela y clavo (cinnamon and clove), and sometimes even eucalyptus.

Coca tea with leaves in Puno, Peru
Coca tea with leaves

Pollo a la brasa con papas fritas – If there’s anything Peru knows how to do, it’s rotisserie chicken and french fries. Mostly the french fries. There are a ton of pollerías in Puno – especially around Plaza Vea and the Mercado Central. I got a chicken leg, a hefty serving of fries, a green soup, ají and other sauces, and a small salad for 8 soles at Pollería Parador. It looks sort of sketchy from the outside but is nice on the inside and has really great french fries! Located at JR. Carlos B. Oquendo 154 Cercado.

Chicharrónes – Haven’t had enough fried things yet? The traditional chicharrónes is made with pork but you can find chicken or even fish fried this way too.

Chicharrónes in Puno
Chicharrónes, potato, and boiled maize

La Barca – apparently Puno’s “best cevichería”. I haven’t been yet. It is located at Arequipa 754.

Pizza – There are SO MANY PIZZA PLACES in Puno. You can get a personal sized pizza and they make them in the fogónes (pizza-style ovens) in the middle of the restaurant, so these places tend to be warmer than other restaurants. My recommendation is to order it with less cheese than usual. They really pile on the cheese and it’s not the usual pizza cheese.

Avocado – Surprisingly, Puno has bomb avocados. You can get them with salad at restaurants, or just buy avocados at the market and eat them by themselves. You can also get these 1 sol sandwiches – just slices of avocado with salt on bread (pan con palta) – from street food stalls. They will usually also be selling various types of drinks like quinoa juice and you have to stand there and drink them from a proper glass (no para llevar) if you want to try them. You can also get pan con palta at the stalls on the second level of the mercado central.

Juices and smoothies – You can get these anywhere and they are always nice and fresh! Well done, Puno 🙂

Suri Restaurant – This is a great basic restaurant a bit off the pedestrian street (so better prices) – they have a big alpaca on their sign. They have a few menú options, with soup, appetizer, main dish, drink, and dessert for like 18 soles. I always get the sopa del día for lunch for 8 soles, which is usually something with potatoes, maize/rice, chuños (rehydrated potatoes), carrot, and a bit of meat. I then add a ton of ají to make it nice and spicy 😉 Jackie likes their hamburguesa de pollo. They are located at JR. Grau 404 Cercado.

Colors – This is a restaurant on Calle Lima with some unusual Western-style offerings. They have a sort of English-breakfast with beans, egg, sausage, and tomato. They offer a gyro-style item which I haven’t had yet, as well as falafel and something called The African Chicken (or something like that) – it’s turmeric chicken in a wrap served with olives, feta, tomato, and cucumber. I wouldn’t say the food is completely outstanding but it’s definitely consistent and better than nearly all the other restaurants on Calle Lima.

Hot chocolate – Peru is known for its chocolate. Just make sure when you order the hot chocolate, you ask how it’s prepared (if there’s no milk, don’t get it!). It is often served without being sweetened and you are given sugar to make it sweet to your own preferences.

Hot chocolate in Peru

Guide to Puno: Other

The post office – Serpost – is located at Moquegua 269 and has quite long hours for a post office. It’s even open on Saturdays and Sundays. Sending a postcard to the States costs 6.50 soles.

The bus station is south of city and it’s called Terminal Terrestre. There is a tourist tax I think of 2-3 soles so be prepared for that when you show up for your bus.

You cannot fly straight into Puno, but you can fly into Juliaca which is about an hour away and make your way to Puno by public transportation.

Did I forget anything in this Puno guide? Add in the comments below!


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28 comments

  1. I think I’m going gaga with those beautiful colored skirt! And I admire the craftsmanship of the people, and that boat is interesting, very colorful. So seems have a great time here 😀

  2. Tae says:

    Wow! Such a comprehensive guide – one I’d trust over LP any day 😉 I wonder why the daily parade? Is it a hobby or is there something always celebrated? So colorful, and the food sounds amazing… so hungry now 🙁

    • mishvo says:

      Haha thank you, that’s quite the honor! I’m not sure what the deal is with the parades – it’s just their main socializing activity it seems. Puno is super saturated by color, it’s amazing.

  3. Linda says:

    Peru has been on my bucket list foreeeeeever! I’m planning on spending 3-4 months in South America within the next coupe of years and am so psyched about Peru! Those traditional skirts are adorable and the HOT CHOCOLATE?! I had a Peruvian Spanish teacher and she made that kind of hot chocolate once in class. It was the bomb!

    • mishvo says:

      I felt the same way about the skirts (and the hats!), especially the ones that were velvet, but stopped myself from buying one because I knew I wouldn’t actually wear it :/

  4. Rashmi&Chalukya says:

    You have shared some great tips here and Puno definitely looks like an awesome place and I would love to witness decadent parades.

  5. Nick Kembel says:

    Thanks for sharing this useful guide! I like that they have parades just about every day and for seemingly no reason 🙂 And does every city in the world have a reggae bar? 🙂

  6. Sheri says:

    This really is an excellent guide and as there already is so little information on this I think a lot of people would be able to use this information either from their phones or printed out if they were to visit. You really did a fantastic job on your own guide.

    • mishvo says:

      Hi Sheri, Thank you, I tried really hard to be comprehensive since, as you said, there is so little info out there.

  7. Andra says:

    Wow, what an informative article. It’s the first time I read about Puno but sounds like a nice place to visit. I love the women in the Feria photo – they look so emblematic for South America

    • mishvo says:

      That’s a great way to put it – “emblematic”. And I agree, I love that photo for the same reason. And because it’s so colorful!

  8. Your post is breathtaking. I am breathless after reading it, honestly. And, the ship looks so cute. Are you a researcher? I would like to know more about you and your interests? I nearly turned into a researcher but fate had something else in store for me. If you are planning to come to India, please write to me, I will help you around.Thanks and have a great weekend (It is a Saturday here in India).P.S. I hope to see some great pictures of Machu Pichu in your next blogpost Michelle. Peru and the other South American countries like Ecuador and Colombia haunt me.

    • mishvo says:

      Hi Swayam, thank you for your thoughtful response and compliments! I went to Machu Pichu at the end of trekking the Salkantay trail. For more on that you can check out this post: http://mishvoinmotion.com/two-week-trip-in-peru-part-1/

      To answer your questions, I do public health research, mostly qualitative in nature and as a part of behavior change interventions. Most recently, I worked on an infant safe sleep study. Regarding your offer, I would love nothing more than to spend a month or two or more traveling around India! Will have to keep you posted on this.

      Again, thanks for stopping by!

  9. Voyager says:

    This is a really detailed and immensely useful guide. You have covered all the essential points. Peru and particularly Machu Pichhu, is a place we have been wanting to go, for some time now. Will bookmark your article for reference. Thanks for sharing.

  10. Shounak says:

    Would be great to visit this part of the world , so much information packed in This blog – you could write a book about the place you know so much

  11. It’s great that you wrote your own detailed guide to a place you know so well! I’m sure this would be useful to anyone visiting Puno. I had heard that the Peruvians were excellent at rotisserie chicken so I would love to try it for myself. Is that a llama that you made friends with?

    • mishvo says:

      Haha yes they are huge on the rotisserie chicken. Unfortunately that llama was not my biggest fan. He was not pleased about posing for that photo.

  12. Veronica says:

    Your guide is amazing! I am saving it to a special travel folder. I have not yet reached Peru but it is on my mind.
    I recently watched a series of travel shows about this beautiful country and it looks like it is a totally different world.

    • mishvo says:

      Hi Veronica, I’m honored to have made it into your special travel folder! Peru is definitely a different world, especially at altitude. You’ll love it.

  13. Danielle says:

    South America always looks like such a colourful and cultural continent – and your pictures make it look even more stunning! A great guide to a lesser known area – thanks for sharing!

  14. Tamshuk says:

    Brilliantly compiled guide. I appreciate how you have provided interesting descriptions for each and everything about the place. Quite an engaging read for a guide 🙂

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